There are no cities in sight for this week’s seven feature restaurants who all enjoy the benefits that their out-of-the-way locations brings to the table.
“We have a ‘buy local’ policy which is reflected in the fact that each region visited for our pop-ups has both local and seasonal products available, which are requested then sourced as part of the process of the dinner menu selection. Using local products is a critical part of the dinner presentation and integral to our approach. From our base kitchen we use small farmers in the surrounding area for the supply of dairy and vegetables.
“Native Australian ingredients are some of the healthiest foods in the world! They blow so called 'super foods' out of the water. Gubingue or Kakadu plum has the highest vitamin C content of any tested fruit in the world and has five times the antioxidants of blueberries. Kangaroo is open-range and has almost no impact on the land compared to cattle, sheep, goats and camels that ruin the soil. Kangaroo has less than two per cent fat, it is wild-harvested and we don’t need to provide water or feed for them. Currently there are more than fifty million kangaroos in Australia, so there is no shortage!”
To read more about Fervor, visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.
"Battlesteads has a kitchen garden including two polytunnels where we grow ninety per cent of the green vegetables, salads and herbs used in the restaurant. We are surrounded by some of the finest livestock, game, fish, poultry, fruit and vegetables in the country and what we can’t grow ourselves is sourced locally to support Northumberland’s farmers and producers. Head Chef Eddie Shilton sources local ingredients for freshness and flavour, keeping food miles to a minimum, and provenance is highlighted on our menus.
"We have a walled garden specially planted to encourage wildlife - the boiler house has a bat box and an owl box, we have lots of bird-feeders to encourage the many smaller species in the area. Badgers, foxes, herons and red squirrels (Battlesteads is a member of the 'Save Our Squirrels' scheme) are frequently reported and a family of otters can be seen in the early morning on the river next to the bridge. We have a wildlife log which we encourage our guests to fill out and our own 'The Birds of Battlesteads' book to help assist bird-watching."
Battlesteads Beer Festival: Discover the best beers, ciders and lagers, with music and entertainment, at our annual four-day beer festival from Thursday 25 July. Click here for all you need to know!
To read more about Battlesteads Hotel & Restaurant, visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.
Battlesteads Hotel & Restaurant (Wark on Tyne, Northumberland, UK)
“We choose to purchase organic produce and as fishermen we depend on healthy waters – whatever is done on land, ends up in the sea. The greatest fish farm we know is not a farm, it's the open sea. We catch our own oysters, mullet and seabass, with other fish bought from colleagues who take their responsibility seriously.
“We are privileged to have some wonderful farmers nearby who produce top quality organic potatoes, vegetables, grains, as well as all of the cream and cheese that we need. Together we form an informal network, supporting and promoting eachother, along with local book shops, B&Bs, art galleries and restaurants, who all share the love for our landscape, waters, soil and nature.
“Our little restaurant is a friendly place where co-workers support each other. We all learn new things, develop our skills and share our knowledge and love for the sea with our guests.”
To read more about 't Ailand, visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.
't Ailand (Lauwersoog, Netherlands)
“Working with farmers, fishers and foragers on our doorstep enables our kitchen to serve a local menu – which has in turn helped develop a thriving food network in the area – as well as ensure customers get to enjoy the best and freshest seasonal produce. Committing to such a tight sourcing policy can be a challenge, particularly in winter, but our head chef works closely with all of our suppliers, constantly adapting and creating new dishes.
“We are incredibly proud of our strong relationships with our local suppliers; we believe the initiative to change our menus on a continuous basis aids the community and we care a great deal about the people with whom we work. They are all amazing."
To read more about The Gallivant, visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.
The Gallivant (Camber, Rye, UK)
“At Harvest, we offer a comprehensive dining experience, giving visitors the opportunity to learn about sustainability and delicious native and locally sourced ingredients. We always consider our implications for the environment and how to minimize our carbon footprint by working with like-minded suppliers, producers, growers, our own edible gardens along with our own wild food researcher who forages for Byron Hinterland’s under-utilized native Australian ingredients. We buy whole animals which are broken down on-site, and ensure we use every part of the beast with sauces and stocks. Our weekly-changing Wild Harvest evening menu allows us to use local, seasonal produce, often only available in small batches, highlighting our core values."
Sustainability Check out some of Harvest’s incredible sustainability and community initiatives here, including ‘Grow’, a series of wholesome community project workshops designed to accompany and inspire a school’s existing framework and curriculum.
To read more about Harvest, visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.
Harvest (Newrybar, New South Wales, Australia)
"Our kitchen garden is key to our menus, and plays a huge role in our lowering carbon emissions. We have always aimed to keep this to a minimum with our pledge to only work with suppliers from within thirty miles. However, now with a focus on using produce from the estate, there is a zero miles label on the majority of ingredients used in our dishes. We are also passionate about not wasting any part of the produce – with two restaurants, as well as our events kitchen for weddings and private events – we are able to utilize all parts of the produce, whether it be a cut of meat, fish or vegetable; for example, broccoli grown in garden has its top blitzed to create a purée, the stalks are chargrilled and remainders of the stems are pickled.
“Our chefs are not only working in the kitchen but are also gardeners; planting and growing key produce in the kitchen garden and on the estate to use on the menu. Gareth and his team focus on the ‘forage diet’, sourcing, planting and nurturing the niche produce that you can’t get from a supplier."
To read more about The Coach House at Middleton Lodge, visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.
The Coach House at Middleton Lodge (Middleton Tyas, Richmond, UK)
“Being situated within Stone Barns affords us the opportunity to have an intimate dialogue with the farmers who grow our food. Our cooks are in constant communication with their team and as a result, are able to understand the nuts and bolts of farming in a way that really shapes how they cook. For instance, at every Thursday’s cooks meeting, a group from the Stone Barns team gives an update of what’s going on at the farm. As a result, our cooks and the rest of our staff acquire an appreciation for the mechanics of growing food.
“Blue Hill sources from over forty different farms, has supported New York's Greenmarkets and their farmers for over twenty years and we've been able to foster some very close relationships with those individuals. Lastly, our relationship with the Barbers' Family Farm and the restaurant's namesake, Blue Hill Farm, is one that is very important to both restaurants. Not only is the farm a source of super delicious dairy, it is really at the heart of what Blue Hill is about. Dan and David spent their childhood summers going to Blue Hill Farm, where their grandmother instilled this deep sense of stewardship for the land. That permeates every element of the restaurant.”
To read more about Blue Hill at Stone Barns, visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.
Blue Hill At Stone Barns (Pocantico Hills, New York, New York, USA)
Teresa Corção, chef and owner of Rio de Janeiro restaurant O Navegador tells us about her interesting project, Gosto da Amazônia ('Amazon Taste', or 'Love for the Amazon'.)
A pirarucu © Bel Corção
“Last November I was approached by a biologist asking if I could help to 'open the Rio market' for this gigantic fish, the pirarucu – one of the largest river fish in the world. The species was endangered in the 1980s but thanks to Instituto Mamirauá and other researchers there is now an abundance. Matching ancient traditional indigenous techniques with scientific methods, communities now fish in such a way that they not only protect the pirarucu but also a whole chain of other species. Together with other eco chefs we tested new recipes to help Rio restaurants understand the best way to cook this delicious fish.
"Being able to have this fish on our menus is a very important option that helps small fishermen in the rainforest to keep living there and taking good care of the environment."
A. (from left) eco chefs Ana Pedrosa, Teresa Corção & Ana Ribeiro | B – D. Pirarucu test dishes © Bel Corção
True 'get away from it all' wild fare with this week's recipe for high country river trout, shared by Sydney, Australia's, love.fish.
This dish is all about celebrating the colour and flavours of autumn. The beautiful luminous trout, the golden linseed, the vibrant beets and dill oil. The combined flavours create lovely harmony - the smokiness of the trout, the salty sweetness of the beets, the crunch of the linseed, the sweet and sour of granny smith apple, the creamy heat of the horseradish - all deliver a wonderful umami.
Prep time: 20 MINUTES | Cook time: 50 MINUTES
LET’S GET STARTED Prepare the salt-baked beets.
Preheat oven to 170°C. Prepare a suitable baking tray by placing a layer of rock salt for the beetroot to sit on. Place the beetroot on the salt and bake in the oven for 45 minutes or until tender enough for a knife to pass through. Remove from oven and allow to cool. Once cool enough to handle, peel and then slice into ½ cm rounds.
Linseed Cracker Place the linseed in a suitable bowl and pour over the boiling water. Season with salt, mix and then allow to sit for 15 minutes. Pour the mix onto a baking tray lined with greaseproof paper and then spread out thinly with a spatula. Bake at 170ºC for 15 minutes or until dehydrated and crisp.
Horseradish Cream Mix together the yoghurt, horseradish and lemon juice. Blitz with a handblender until smooth.
Dill Oil Pick the sprigs of dill from the bunch, reserve the stalks for another purpose. Place the oil and dill in a pan and heat to 80ºC, carefully transfer the mix to a high-powered blender and blitz. Pass the mix through a fine strainer and chill immediately to preserve the vibrant colour.
PLATING THE DISH Place the horseradish cream in the base of a shallow bowl and then spread a layer with the back of a spoon. Layer slices of the roasted beets and add the cubes of trout or any other smoked fish that will work well. Garnish with the linseed crackers, apple matchsticks, dill sprigs, raddichio leaves, and finish with vibrant dill oil.
love.fish (Sydney, Australia)
Along with husband Iain, Hayley Pember-Calvert is co-owner and General Manager of Leonards Mill, (Second Valley, South Australia) and describes herself as “mother, wifey, guidance counsellor, taxi, coffee maker, wine pourer, menu tester, marketing, front of house, social activist, community conscious, country girl, chardonnay lover and butter enthusiast.” Hayley tells us about their fantastic permaculture gardens and autumn menu.
The restaurant has its own permaculture gardens. What sort of things do you grow here, and what are the benefits of keeping your own garden? We are located in a unique cool mountain micro-climate in the Adelaide Mediterranean biome; this means we have the opportunity to grow a huge variety of plant species just within our own backyard. Specifically we have been building a stock of perennial herbs such as lovage, garlic chives, rosemary, karkalla and different mint species.
At the moment as we are coming into the cooler months we have just done a large planting of tatsoi, kale, parsley, silverbeet, rainbow chard, pumpkins and have had an abundance of figs, zucchini and rhubarb this season.
Permaculture specifically focuses on creating closed loop sustainable systems and a productive garden that mimics natural wild systems. This is perfect for us as we can create our own compost from kitchen scraps using our small chicken flock that in turn helps feed our fruit trees and garden beds.
The biggest and easiest advantage is how fresh the produce is, the produce is literally picked within a twenty metre walking distance from the kitchen door. There isn’t any wait time in transport or waiting period before it makes it to the kitchen.
As the system itself is still in its early days we have a bunch of different ideas to improve. These include expanding our kitchen garden to almost double its current size, rejuvenating our stone fruit orchard, introducing more native plant species to the property for wild habitat, running workshops around what we do in our garden and increasing our composting systems.
You recently welcomed in a new head chef, Konny Putkin. What kind of flavours and cuisines will he bring to the Leonards Mill menu? Konny has been classically trained in haute French culinary cooking but spent the last six years in Australia using local ingredients. Now with a focus on using whole animal, nose to tail and using only local produce, the flavours of the Fleurieu Peninsula are prevalent.
Autumn is rapidly approaching for our Southern-Hemisphere restaurants. Are you introducing a new menu? If so, what kinds of dishes can we expect? We change our lunch à la carte menu approximately every six weeks so we will have a new menu soon. One of the new autumn dishes will be a fluffy gnocchi with a local rabbit ragu, goat's curd from the Adelaide Hills and our own horseradish leaf pesto. Our garden will hopefully be bursting with tatsoi, kale, parsley and pumpkins so all those will feature as well.
Is there a staff favourite that reappears on the menu time and time again? Definitely! It is our beef tartare dish. It has been reinvented with the seasons but it is very special to the staff here. The majority of the dish comes from Second Valley with the beef coming from seven-hundred metres from the Mill and then all the herbs and vegetables come from the Mill itself or a farm down the road. It is so fresh and vibrant and it truly encapsulates the flavours of Second Valley and Leonards Mill.
You are passionate about sourcing local produce. Can you talk a little about why this is important to you and what steps you have taken around this? We hate when you go somewhere and they only have sirloin or porterhouse steak on the menu and it never changes – what happens to the rest of the animal? When you buy direct from people and you know their names and see their faces and the love that they have for what they do and produce, you can taste the difference. We know first-hand that the lamb, beef, pork are free range and see the farms, we can see the grass they eat and how they are treated. There is too much wastage in our world while others are starving so there is no excuse why we shouldn’t be using whole plant, veg, fruit and animal. We want to support the ‘little guy’ and use the entire produce, whether that is a whole animal or a carrot or beetroot from root to leaf. Sourcing direct from local farmers is a lot more work and time and effort but we have spent the last year building up relationships and word of mouth, someone always knows someone else that has a different vegetable that we might like to use. We don’t ask our producers to grow anything specific, it's more about what works in their soil, what do they want to grow and what can they grow. We are always on the lookout for local producers and at the moment all our meat and fish proteins come from a twenty kilometre radius of Leonards Mill.
What else are you working on in 2019? We will be adding to our ever-evolving garden, and we are hoping to add more permaculture workshops and classes with our permaculture god Kym Ormond. We really just want to keep growing and learning as a restaurant family and telling people why we do what we do!
Is there anything else you would like to add? We love what Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery is doing by shining a light on restaurant sustainability and making people aware of the impact that restaurants have on the environment, economy as well as the local communities and people.
Hayley Pember-Calvert with husband Iain and son Gillan
"We’re passionate about local sourcing. We know it’s good for the earth and we’ve learned from experience that it’s really good for the soul. Two Belly Acres, our family farm where Lowell’s partner Natalie grew up and which her family still farms. Other local farms provide pasture-raised chicken eggs, duck eggs, lovingly-raised rabbit, goat, and pork plus local honey, potatoes, local and heirloom grains, beans and vegetables. Our forager friends often stop by the restaurant with crates of wild mushrooms, sweet little bags of wild greens or a whole wild king salmon caught around Bodega Bay in season.
"We are here in service to our community, bringing together food, wine, and the people we love in a comfortable and inclusive setting. We are honoured that the restaurant has become such a communal hub."
Come travel with Lowell’s through Italy! For 2019, Lowell’s is embracing its roots and taking a seasonal stroll through the regions of Italy. Each month, menus will feature dishes, ingredients, and their methods from a specific region (or regions) in Italy. They will also be showcasing local winemakers who are growing Italian varietals. Click here to get all the details.
To read more about Lowell's, visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.
“We are most passionate about supporting our local food system. Just as important is respecting the techniques and craft that allow us to highlight our remarkable bounty of ingredients.
"We draw our inspiration from Sonoma County, with all of its amazing bounties; orchards, farms, ranchers, foragers and fisherman. Every fruit, vegetable and animal is grown, raised or line caught locally – we never use farmed fish – and purchase only from those with the most ethical practices of sustainability. We also grow our own produce at our farm Bee Run Hollow. This is our way to support the community around us and helps to not only sustain, but also to help build the demand for new jobs and revenue streams."
To read more about Backyard, visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.
Backyard (Sonoma, California, USA)
“We source our seafood from the nearby coastal waters off Bodega Bay, and our produce from local farmers, ranchers, and suppliers which allows us to nurture close and meaningful relationships. We have a seasonal pantry in our kitchen which includes SHED powders and spice blends, our pickles and ferments, shrubs, and jams as well as what we produce for sale in the store.
“We have a grain programme which supports local grain growers who provide heirloom wheat and corn for us to mill and use in our pastries and crackers. Our fermentation programme allows us to experiment with different types of processes to produce delicious, healthy, and sometimes surprising ferments.
“SHED is proud to be part of the movement towards carbon neutral dining by joining the ranks of Zero Foodprint along with some of the world’s best chefs and restaurants.”
To read more about SHED, visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.
SHED (Sonoma, California, USA)
“Sonoma County offers an abundance of wild ingredients from nettles to mushrooms to edible flowers and we feature many of these on our menu year-round. We also glean fruit from our community by harvesting excess fruits (often-times with imperfections) that would otherwise go to waste.
“We grow our own produce and source produce, wines and beer from other small local farms, vitners and brewers that are transparent about their farming, harvesting and catch methods. We try to use produce that is truly in season (here in West Sonoma County that means waiting until August for that perfectly ripe heirloom tomato!) By sourcing locally and sustainably grown food we are reducing our impact on the environment.”
To read more about Handline, visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.
Handline (Sonoma, California, USA)
“The elimination of food waste is a critical issue for us. At Foreign Cinema we use all products for a zero waste model. We ban all single-use plastic and other materials.
“Our fish and protein purveyors are trusted for their concern for humane and sustainable practices, sourcing and purchasing. We only work with seasonal ingredients, highlighting what's fresh in the markets and where ingredients come from. In this way, we support a system of trust and sustainability. Our wine list and cocktail menu follows that same priority. We are a zero waste business that composts and recycles. We use no single-use products and our bar and wine program also represents this belief. We support vendors who make products and ingredients with this same ethos and all of our cooking oils become biodiesel."
Foreign Cinema is approaching a very celebratory milestone – their twentieth anniversary! On 19 September, the restaurant will celebrate twenty years of cooking in the Mission – uniting that magical combination of film and food. They will have a Fellini-inspired bash, so stay tuned for more details closer to the time!
To read more about Foreign Cinema, visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.
Foreign Cinema (San Francisco, California, USA)
“At DOSA, our menu is dedicated to time and place and only offering what is in season in California. We go to local farmers' markets three days a week and base our menu on what is not only in season but available from local farms – doing our best to source only sustainably-grown produce and ethically-raised meat. If we can't get the item from a local small farmer, it comes off the menu. We create dishes based on the produce rather than taking existing dishes and folding local produce into them.
“We recycle and compost at the restaurant and keep waste logs to make sure we don't waste a lot of food. As a company we are also working on reducing single use packaging. We do our best to shop locally so as to lower our carbon footprint.”
Get involved in one or all of DOSA’s great weekly events running at both their Fillmore and Valencia restaurants. Every Wednesday at DOSA on Fillmore, the Winemaker's Dinner gives wine lovers a chance to explore their highly curated, focused and producer-driven list. Book here. At DOSA Valencia, every Wednesday is Martini Night, so stop in and try a new spice-driven cocktail created specifically for a different distiller – and each Tuesday is their a delicious and sumptuous South Indian BBQ! Don’t miss out. Book here.
To read more about DOSA, visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.
DOSA (San Francisco, California, USA)
“Gwen’s European-style butcher shop aims to deliver the best in class for quality, taste, and service. We choose to use pasture-raised, hormone and antibiotic-free animals and ensure that we minimize food waste by utilizing whole animal butchering with our in-house charcuterie programme, using every part of the animal.”
To read more about Gwen, visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.
Curtis & Luke Stone, Gwen (Los Angeles, California, USA) © Ray Kachatorian
16 May 2019
Staying with our coastal theme but moving to South Australia, we asked Jack Ingram, chef and owner of Kangaroo Island's [Sunset Food & Wine](https://truthloveandcleancutlery.com/profiles/australia/south-australia/kangaroo-head/sunset-food-and-wine) to answer the *Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery* Questionnaire. There are only two rules – you have to tell the Truth, and do it with Love...
09 May 2019
True farm-to-table offerings and admirable sustainability practices are the focus for this week’s feature restaurants.
09 May 2019
Try this tasty farm-to-table recipe for Carrot Pudding from Fat Pig Farm (Huon Valley, Tasmania, Australia)
09 May 2019
A very warm welcome to our two newest members; Forge at Middleton Lodge from the UK and Mexko Cocina Regional de Autor from Mexico.