Seasonal, artisanal and supporting local all go hand-in-hand for this week's feature restaurants

14 November 2019

Maxwell Restaurant

  • WHO: Fabian Lehmann, chef
  • WHAT: A taste of McLaren Vale from vine to table
  • WHERE: 19 Olivers Road, McLaren Vale, South Australia

“We grow much of our produce in the estate gardens, so sustainability is inherent to the process. In an industry driven by expensive taste and high prices we are always very conscious of offering value to our customers – generosity is at the heart of the Maxwell experience.

“Solar roof panels deliver much of the power to the winery and restaurant, we harvest water from the over-flowing creek in winter that we can reuse in summer and we use only bore water on our gardens and lawns. What minimal food waste we produce makes fantastic compost for the Maxwell gardens.”

Congratulations to the team at Maxwell on their recent accolades:

  • Delicious – Top 100, ‘Best Sunday Lunch’
  • Best Wine Tourism Restaurant Award for South Australia, Great Wine Capitals 2020
  • Gourmet Traveller – listed as one of the ‘Best Restaurants in South Australia’

Try Maxwell Restaurant's beautiful cauliflower panna cotta included in this week.

To learn more about Maxwell Restaurant, visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile page here.


Juniper

  • WHO: Brandon, chef/co-owner & Jeanne Velie, co-owner
  • WHAT: An unexpectedly unique restaurant in the South Carolina Midlands
  • WHERE: 640 East Main Street, Ridge Spring, Saluda, South Carolina, USA

“At Juniper, we visit every farm we purchase from and make sure the farmers are as passionate about sustainability as we are – this is always one of the first topics of conversation when considering a new farmer relationship. Using this local and seasonal produce, we change our dinner menu every week to tap into this belief, ensuring our dishes are local inside and out!

“Additionally, we highlight all of these local farms on our dinner menu and on social media. We also co-host a twice-yearly cooking event at Camp Gravatt called Big Delicious, which highlights local farmers and shows different ways to cook healthy, local foods.”

To learn more about Juniper, visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile page here.

JuniperJuniper


The Gallivant

  • WHO: Harry Cragoe, owner
  • WHAT: A restaurant with coastal-inspired bedrooms & a beach hut mini spa
  • WHERE: New Lydd Road, Camber, Rye, UK

“Supporting the local community is a top priority for The Gallivant. Our main initiative is to ensure that all of our produce is coming from, where possible, local and independent businesses. This not only helps build the local community’s economy but also allows us to build strong relationships with those closest to us. By working with individuals who are as passionate about the local community as us, we establish an efficient and sustainable method to support smaller businesses and boost local employment. Working with small suppliers’ costs more. However, we believe buying from these smaller businesses benefits those around us and us at the end of the day. As a business, we are always re-assessing how we can shop more locally by doing our best to keep up to date and get out there into the community.

“Everything is homemade in our kitchen or by local, artisan producers. More recently, this passion has spread to supporting the ever increasing number of wineries that surround us. We think English wine in general isn’t getting enough support from the trade (and the press) that it justifies and we are incredibly passionate supporters. We believe we now have one of the largest English wine lists in the country as well as a broad selection of British spirits. It grows by the month.”

To learn more about The Gallivant, visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile page here.

The GallivantThe Gallivant


Pigeon Hole Café

  • WHO: Richard & Belinda Weston, owners
  • WHAT: Cosy farmer-owned café with seriously seasonal food (and peonies)
  • WHERE: 93 Goulburn Street, West Hobart, Tasmania, Australia

“No-waste is part of our food philosophy and it all begins with the harvesting. Our tomatoes are made into passata and the skins are dehydrated to make delicious tomato salt. Our flower harvest of peonies also utilizes the blown blooms, making a beautiful peony jelly.

“The peony jelly recipe was the genius result of losing a lot of our early harvest peonies to strong, hot winds. Knowing that they couldn’t be sold to florists, we came across the idea to capitalize on the loss and the result has turned out to be one of our most popular products to purchase. Richard is a horticulturist, and was aware that the peonies had been used in ancient Chinese medicine for centuries and are also edible. I believe we are the only café in Australia using this amazing product. Check out our website to look at the flower heads that were used to make the jelly – or stop in and try it! Peony jelly can be used as a mimosa in champagne, a jelly used in sponges, or as a condiment to a cheese platter."

To learn more about Pigeon Hole Café, visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile page here.

Pigeon Hole CaféPigeon Hole Café


Ricluce

  • WHO: Richard Golding, chef/owner
  • WHAT: Seasonal, sustainable British food in unique locations
  • WHERE: Pop-up locations (refer website)

“We aim to grow as much food as we can ourselves, although in the winter months this can be a struggle and the menu is awash with rooty-goodness. We do have to order some produce in as any other normal restaurant would, still in keeping with our values with everything being British and seasonal. Our menus follow the seasons and take you on a journey through our pastures – apples from our garden, squash and autumn leaves such as red mustard frills and beetroot leaf.

“We believe dining is an experience and a social event – an occasion where people that may have never met before sit down and talk with one another. The food is cooked and plated in front of you and you are personally guided through your plates by Richard.

“Our location changes from time to time but they all have one thing in common – they are all beautiful and have a story to tell, and everyone is brought together by a love for good food."

Upcoming Ricluce events: "Come and join us on 16 November at 7pm for an 8-course tasting menu in the beautiful St Nicholas chapel in Kings Lynn. Executive Chef Richard Golding will create a menu around the seasons with what we are able to source locally, along with as much produce as possible from our very own gardens. To book this and further upcoming events please click here.

To learn more about Ricluce, visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile page here.

RicluceRicluce


Maxwell Restaurant’s cauliflower panna cotta with torched scallop and cauliflower variation

14 November 2019
Cauliflower panna cotta with torched scallop and cauliflower

Cauliflower panna cotta with torched scallop and cauliflower variation

by Chef Fabian Lehmann, Maxwell Restaurant (McLaren Vale, South Australia)

Serves 8

Ingredients:

Cauliflower panna cotta

  • 1 cauliflower
  • 1 L full cream milk
  • 6 sheets of gelatine
  • good quality soy sauce
  • sea salt flakes

Dehydrated cauliflower

  • cauliflower
  • salt flakes

Pickled cauliflower

  • cauliflower florets
  • 80 ml cooking sake
  • 40 ml mirin
  • 60 ml sushi vinegar
  • 60 g sugar
  • 10 coriander seeds

Cauliflower purée

  • cauliflower trim (from dehydrated)
  • butter
  • milk

Torched scallops

  • 8 scallops

Coriander leaves to garnish

Method:

Cauliflower panna cotta Cook cauliflower in milk until soft. Soak gelatine in cold water. Process cauliflower and milk in Thermomix or blender until smooth. Pass through fine sieve and season with salt and soy sauce to taste. Add gelatine to hot mix, stir until dissolved. Pour mixture into tray at a thickness of 1cm and refrigerate until set. Cut into large discs using a cookie cutter.

Dehydrated cauliflower Shave cauliflower on mandolin or meat slicer as thin as possible. Dehydrate on 65°C for 2 hours. Deep fry on 160°C until golden and crispy. Season with salt.

Pickled cauliflower Boil sake, mirin, sushi vinegar, sugar and coriander seeds to make a pickling juice. Set aside to cool. Take 200 g of cauliflower florets and add to room temperature pickling juice. Leave in pickling juice until soft.

Cauliflower purée Roast cauliflower trims in 3-4 tablespoons of butter until golden brown and soft. Blitz in blender and add milk until desired consistency (around 200 mls roughly). Season to taste and pass through a fine sieve.

Torched scallops Using a butane burner, briefly run the flame over the surface of the scallops until browned (a few seconds). The scallop should remain raw most of the way through. Using a very sharp knife, slice scallops horizontally as thinly as possible.

To assemble: Place disc of cauliflower panna cotta in centre of dish. Top panna cotta with several pieces of the finely sliced scallop. Pipe small dots of purée on top of scallop and alternate with florets of pickled cauliflower, finish with slices of dehydrated cauliflower. Garnish with coriander.

Chef Fabien Lehmann, Maxwell RestaurantChef Fabien Lehmann, Maxwell Restaurant


Richard Golding from the UK's Ricluce takes his turn with the TL&CC Q&A

14 November 2019

Richard Golding is the chef and owner of Ricluce in the UK and is a self-taught chef who is passionate about seasonal British food.


What is the best thing you can do with your hands? Make bread.

What was your first experience with sustainable eating? Ethicurean, outside Bristol, UK.

What do you love most about what you do? Making people happy.

What do you consider the most overrated ingredient? Meat. You can do so much more with vegetables.

What’s the best thing you’ve ever been taught? Never give up.

Is there anything you don’t particularly care to eat? Pasta.

If you were to die and come back as a person or a thing, what would it be? A dog.

When was the last time you ate out, and where? We eat out regularly, most memorable recently was L’Eclume.

What are your favourite books or cookbooks? On Vegetables by Jeremy Fox, is a current favourite.

What do you make from scratch? Everything.

How do you like to spend your day off? Gardening, eating, sleeping.

What does success mean to you? No idea, have yet to achieve it!

Which three words best describe your cooking style? Seasonal, relaxed, respectful.

Which producer or supplier really brightens your day? Matt Cockin, Fruit Pig Company.

Which words or phrases do you most overuse? Probably unprintable.

What do you think the food of the future will look like? Less meat-based menus.

What is your number one sustainability tip or trick? Grow it yourself.

RicluceRicluce


Sustainable seafood and beer, free-range pigs and top-quality local produce – this week's feature restaurants have it covered!

07 November 2019

Mani

  • WHO: Helena Rizzo, chef/co-owner
  • WHAT: A modern & casual restaurant with sophisticated dishes focused on Brazilian ingredients
  • WHERE: Rua Joaquim Antunes, 210, São Paulo, Brazil

“Seasonality is one of the most important values for restaurants and we are always looking to increase the presence of seasonal items on our menus. We have achieved this by strengthening ties between the restaurant and our producers. A way of developing this is to create purchase guarantees which encourage producers to invest in seasonal products.

“We promote the consumption of a variety of fish at Mani, which is an advantage because it opens the palate of the customer and discourages predatory fishing. Our two fish suppliers, only provide fresh fish, in season, with respectful handling (no trawling) and practice fair prices for fishermen. The chicken we use is organic and we have established a relationship with a meat producer that supplies us with the entire animal with which we are developing dishes with necks and offal, in addition to more traditional parts.”

Segundas no Maní (Mondays at Maní) A series of dinners where Chef Helena Rizzo hosts and cooks with foreign chefs. The series began in October with the first guest, Dutch cook Margot Janse. Now in November, Helena will cook with Mexico’s Enrique Olvera (Pujol, CDMX) and Daniela Soto-Innes (Cosme, NYC). In December, the Danish Chef Bo Bech will be the final guest. Find out more here.

To read more about Mani, visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.


Fullsteam Tavern

  • WHO: Sean Lilly Wilson, owner
  • WHAT: A plow-to-pint brewery & tavern brewing & cooking with Southern ingredients
  • WHERE: 726 Rigsbee Avenue , Durham, North Carolina, USA

“We're passionate about connecting to the land, producing beer and food from farmers and from foraging. Our mission is to connect people to the land and to one another – we just happen to brew beer and make food.

“We work closely with the Triangle Land Conservancy to promote awareness of public lands forever protected from development. We forage and wander these lands as co-workers, with family, and with fellow brewers, foragers, and beer enthusiasts.

“We're founding members of the Durham Living Wage campaign, ensuring all employees receive at least a living wage for their labour. Like a lot of breweries, we also donate to social causes that align with our mission. We prioritize social giving to non-profits relating to farm systems and urban gardening, sustainability and social enterprise and Durham-centric economic development.”

To read more about Fullsteam Tavern, visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.

Fullsteam TavernFullsteam Tavern


Arthur’s Farm Kitchen at Fordhall Farm

  • WHO: The Fordhall Community Land Initiative, owner
  • WHAT: A community-owned organic farm offering a unique experience to all who visit
  • WHERE: Tern Hill Road, Market Drayton, Shropshire, UK

“For us, food is about sharing our love of growing, rearing animals in a respectful and natural way, and of course our planet. Everything we do here also gives back to the community with our café supporting all the wonderful projects we have at Fordhall Farm. So your cup of freshly ground organic and fair trade coffee has a much greater impact and every cup helps. A visit can also include a walk on one of our free farm trails (dogs welcome on leads), a potter into our farm shop, or simply a visit to see our free range Gloucester Old Spot pigs.

“Our menu is designed to lower carbon usage; we batch cook, we slow cook, we pickle, preserve, smoke and ferment and we don't have fryers or microwaves. There is zero food waste in our kitchen and we're proud of that. Our menu is written to reduce food waste and anything that we can't re-purpose or feed to our army of volunteers goes to our Ridan hot composter and is used to fertilise our community garden. Our building also has a PV array to generate our own electricity and an air source heat pump to provide our heating and hot water."

Straw Bale Lodge: Fordhall have recently completed the construction of their new Straw Bale Lodge. This eco-build welcomes retreats and group workshops as well as onsite weddings and catering opportunities. Made from local straw and roundwood timber and supported in construction by many volunteers, it truly is a beautiful build. Christmas is coming and we have a wonderful Christmas lunches available for groups of up to forty guests in our beautiful private room. Details here.

To read more about Arthur’s Farm Kitchen at Fordhall Farm, visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.

The Straw Bale Lodge at Arthur's Farm Kitchen at Fordall FarmThe Straw Bale Lodge at Arthur's Farm Kitchen at Fordall Farm


love.fish

  • WHO: Michael Milkovic & Michelle Grand-Milkovic, co-owners
  • WHAT: Fresh, sustainable Australian seafood hero
  • WHERE: Wulugul Walk, 7/23 Barangaroo Avenue, Barangaroo, Sydney, New South Wales, Australia

“Our menu is guided by the seasons and we offer the provenance and quality of sustainable Australian seafood that doesn’t cost the earth, because it doesn’t need to. The sustainable choice is to support Australian fisheries and farmers – we have the highest standards in the world! We select seafood that is not subject to over-fishing and always look for produce that has been caught or farmed using methods that respect the environment. We list the provenance of all of our seafood, selecting only the highest quality fish sourced locally from Australian and New Zealand waters, because we believe that food miles play an important role in reducing our ecological footprint.

“The love.fish goal is to help reduce landfill, protect natural resources and reduce greenhouse emissions. As a restaurant providing takeaway we have been very mindful to choose environmentally responsible packaging – ensuring the majority of our packaging is biodegradable is integral to our waste management."

Check out the flavourful fish taco recipe this week from love.fish.

To read more about love.fish, visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.

love.fishlove.fish


Little Tart Bakeshop

  • WHO: Sarah O'Brien, baker/owner
  • WHAT: French-inspired, seasonal pastry, delicious coffee & light, vegetable-driven lunch & brunch
  • WHERE: 437 Memorial Drive Southeast, Atlanta, Georgia, USA (and other locations)

“From the beginning we have chosen to work with local farmers, jam makers, beekeepers, cheese makers, and butchers. Our milk is always local, as is our honey, our peanut butter, and our cheese! Ninety per cent of our vegetables and fruit are local too because we believe local, quality ingredients are what sets our food apart.

“We also work with our local composting heroes, Compost Now who are working to make communities compostable, helping individuals and businesses to reduce their carbon footprint and to reconnect people to healthy soil. Our food waste also ends up back on our local farmers' fields as compost – and in turn we buy their veggies. It's a wonderful cycle.

“We are always striving to become even better bakers – we love what we do, and hope that comes through in every buttery, flaky bite.”

To read more about Little Tart Bakeshop, visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.

Little Tart BakeshopLittle Tart Bakeshop