Franzina Trattoria describes its food ethos
“Sicilian cuisine is essentially peasant food. We use little meat or dairy products. Vegetables and oily fish are our staples, together with fresh herbs and olive oil. Whenever possible we buy local, seasonal and sustainable produce. We are firm believers in ‘growing with our neighbours’, so we hire and source as near to the restaurant as we can. When unavoidable, we import produce from Sicily, direct from producers we have personally met and whose produce we have checked.”
To read more about Franzina Trattoria visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.
The Chairman Restaurant explains the essence of Cantonese cuisine
WHERE: 18 Kau U Fong, Central Hong Kong
“The essence of Cantonese cuisine is freshness. That is why, as much as possible, we use local ingredients, products from local condiment stores and seafood from local fishermen. We create those sauces that we can prepare on our own in our kitchen. We also have a small farm of our own in Sheung Shui, which is used as a venue for curing preserved meat and making different kinds of pickles. There is no shark fin, sea cucumber or bird's nest on The Chairman's menu, simply because we consider the other delicacies more interesting, and more eco-friendly.”
To read more about The Chairman Restaurant visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.
The Chairman Restaurant, Central Hong Kong
Liberté on the importance of second chances
WHERE: 160-62 Stirling Terrace, Albany, Western Australia 6330, Australia
“I care about supporting passionate people. Liberté was always going to be a vehicle that allowed me to express what I am passionate about – and that is food first and foremost, but secondly the people behind the food, whether it be the small producer who makes the wonderful sheep's yoghurt for our sheep’s yoghurt mousse, or the staff who help make that mousse appear on the table. I guess you could say I'm also passionate about underdogs, whether that be through supporting misunderstood ingredients, such as widely-criticized fish species, or simply good people that need the benefit of a second chance, just like Liberté did when I took over in 2014. It was a beautiful idea that just needed someone to believe in it and give it a second chance.”
To read more about Liberté visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.
Liberté, Albany, Western Australia
Mosquito Supper Club champions food that tells a story
“Food has to tell a story for me. I believe in seeing history and a community in every plate. Our shrimp okra gumbo is the gumbo I know. My mum made it every Sunday from okra put away from the summer's crop. It is both simple and achingly hard to execute, but this dish is symbolic of history. It rings of an African Senegalese soup and reminds us of the connectivity of a food chain.
“Our blackberry dumpling with ice cream tells the story of my childhood, when my parents ran an ice cream stand at the local fair. We would take our bowls of ice cream over to the blackberry dumpling stand and have a dumpling added to our bowl. Our ice cream is one hundred per cent local, aside from the vanilla beans we procure. The blackberries we pick from my grandparents’ land in Cocodrie, Louisiana. When they are in season we forage as much as we can and freeze them for desserts to come.”
To read more about Mosquito Supper Club visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.
Mosquito Supper Club, New Orleans, Louisiana, USA
Fauna celebrates local suppliers
WHERE: Küçükbakkalkoy Mahallesi Işıklar Caddesi, Ahmet Muhip Dranas Sokak, No:9/B 34750 Ataşehir, Istanbul, Turkey
“We use local and organic products as far as we can. Our pesto is exceptional, made with pine nuts from villages in the Ayvalik Kozak plateau. We use Buffa buffalo milk mozzarella, burrata and ricotta, produced daily in Kandira, near Istanbul. Our free-range eggs, used in our pasta and ravioli dough, come from Fatma Denizci, an organic farm in Sile Ovacik village, just north of Istanbul. The chickens are fed with flaxseed, pomegranate seeds, hazelnut pulp, squash seeds, corn, salt and marble grit.”
To read more about Fauna visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.
Fauna, Istanbul, Turkey
The Whale Wins walks us through their key passions
“We are most passionate about choosing quality ingredients to roast in our wood-fired oven (a six-foot-diameter Mugliani from Italy). We like to keep things simple (but interesting!) to really highlight the amazing things that happen when wonderful ingredients are roasted with such high heat in such a special way. We strive to give our guests a feeling of abundance and celebration no matter what the occasion is – a memorable experience with warmth, delicious food and great care.”
To read more about The Whale Wins visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.
The Whale Wins, Seattle, Washington, USA
Pasture shares its eco-friendly initiatives
“We are a vegetable-forward establishment. We have six worm farms and we support a small, local company to collect and commercially compost our green waste. We sort and pay for our soft plastic and polystyrene to be collected and commercially recycled. From our butter to our bread, to vinegars and ferments, we make as much as we possibly can in-house. We use manuka wood (an abundant wood source in New Zealand) from managed forests as our main cooking fuel. We also have an induction stove for environmental reasons.”
To read more about Pasture visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.
Pasture, Auckland, New Zealand
TL&CC Collective restaurant Appellation, Marananga, South Australia, is an advocate for cooking with seasonal produce. “I strongly believe that if an ingredient is sourced locally at its peak of perfection it should be treated with respect and served in a manner that represents its true nature,” says Executive Chef Daniel Murphy. “I keenly support our local farmers’ markets and particularly enjoy my interaction with growers, discussing what is in season and being able to highlight those ingredients in my cooking.”
Appellation has kindly shared a recipe with the TL&CC Collective that represents these values – and doesn’t it sound delicious?
Charred cauliflower, sweetcorn cream, ice plant and toasted walnut
For the cauliflower: Set up an open wood-fired grill. Slice the cauliflower into four even ‘steaks’. Melt the unsalted butter.
Rub the olive oil over the cauliflower pieces and sprinkle with cumin seeds and salt. Place over a medium heat on the grill, turn the cauliflower every few minutes or so while brushing the melted butter over it after each turn, until the desired colour is reached and it is fully cooked through.
For the sweetcorn cream: Slice the kernels off the cobs and run the corn kernels through a juicer to obtain the sweetcorn juice.
Place the corn juice in a small pot and bring to a boil while whisking continuously. The corn juice will thicken to a smooth purée after simmering for about three minutes.
Add the butter a little at a time and season with sea salt and a touch of vinegar.
To finish: Place the warm sweetcorn cream on the bottom of the plate and top with the roasted cauliflower. Garnish with ice plant and chickpea leaves and cover liberally with shaved walnut.
After a long period of both studying and working, Ibrahim Tuna continues in his role as chef and owner of Istanbul restaurant Fauna – a job he loves. "This is my place, this is what I want to do,” he explains, adding that he has no plans of slowing down. “For me ‘to do’ is essential.”
What is your idea of perfect happiness? Be together with whom you love and those who love you.
What is the purest thing you have ever tasted? Natural spring water from the Taurus Mountains, Saklikent, Antalya.
What is the best thing you can do with your hands? Make dough from semolina and organic eggs.
What was your first experience with sustainable eating? Istanbul, where the early stage of my life took place, was surrounded by vegetable gardens and orchards. Its sea was bountiful. There were vegetables, fruits and fishes unique to Istanbul. After gardens were destroyed by concrete and the sea was plundered, we began to eat vegetables and fruits cultivated from hybrid seeds from far away countries and cities. There were no fish left, either. We were living with sustainability andonly understood the meaning once it was lost.
What do you love most about what you do? I think the best thing I’ve ever done is to prepare pasta dough that is good for every corner of the world. I’ve insisted on making pasta with semolina since the day I started in 2003. This is a dough that I make with semolina and organic eggs without any addition of flour and water. My opinion is, no matter which type of flour is used or which level of skill is applied, no pasta made from flour can be superior to pasta made from semolina. Mastery definitely cannot change this result. Why flour is preferred: You can easily make pasta dough without needing any machinery. You may quickly roll out dough and make pasta. It is easy, comfortable and cheap. Semolina dough cannot be kneaded and rolled out without machinery; it gives you trouble, but for my part the result is incomparable: the best pasta dough is made of semolina, as it is made at Fauna.
What’s the best thing you’ve ever been taught? To be yourself.
Is there anything you don’t particularly care to eat? Anything prepared in a microwave.
If you were to die and come back as a person or a thing, what would it be? Glenn Gould (Canadian pianist).
When was the last time you ate out, and where? If we talk about places which impressed me a lot lately, then, oven-braised red mullet with tomato sauce which I ate last summer in Ayna Restaurant, Cunda/Ayvalik, Turkey. And every dish which is cooked by Chef Erhan Seker in Zeytinbagi, Kaz Mountains, Edremit, Turkey. He uses his own ingredients from his garden.
Are there any mentors or food heroes you would like to thank? I’d like to thank Vedat Milor, and Bige and Fazli Kesmir who led the Vedat Milor meet Fauna.
What are your favourite books or cookbooks? All books by Fyodor Dostoyevsky.
What is the dish on your own menu that most engages you? Lamb ravioli with Karayaka lamb shin and walnut filling in bone broth.
What do you make from scratch? Everything we cook and prepare (except bread and cheese).
What would you be doing if you weren’t doing what you are doing? I would endeavour to be a good idler.
How do you like to spend your day off? A long breakfast with my wife and a raki table with my friends in the evening (drinking raki, a sweetened alcoholic drink, around a table known as a raki table).
What does success mean to you? Get rid of all excuses.
What is your current obsession, the thing you think about at 3am? How can I use nigella seed paste in Fauna?
Which three words best describe your cooking style? Plain, fresh, cook-to-order.
If you could eat only one thing today, what would it be? Freshly-baked sourdough bread with butter.
What do you see when you think of the cuisine of your own country? Delicious cuisine which hasn’t come out from home kitchens and reached restaurants yet.
Which producer or supplier really brightens your day? Nebyan Dogal: Karayaka lamb (a local Anatolian breed in danger of extinction, that is getting hard to find). They support local shepherds that graze their animals in high pastures without using antibiotics and aim to protect this breed.
Which words or phrases do you most overuse? Pasta run out for the day!
Which talent would you most like to have? Be able to play the jazz clarinet.
What do you think the food of the future will look like? They will eat if able to find in the future!
Do you have a motto or mantra? Fauna is only for those who have patience and time.
What is your number one sustainability tip or trick? Don’t forget to respect life and living things.
Sunset Food and Wine shares two tasty dishes
WHERE: 4564 Hog Bay Road, Kangaroo Head, South Australia 5222, Australia
“Kangaroo island lamb rump with eggplant, miso, black garlic – this dish is a great example of ingredients speaking for themselves, and of local produce. The lambs are raised very close to the restaurant, and are fed on lush grass. The eggplants are grown in our own kitchen garden which we use with miso and make into a terrine. The miso is handmade in Tasmania. We source the black garlic from a garlic farm in the north of Kangaroo Island, which we mix with confit garlic. The dish then gets finished with lamb jus and kale which also grows in our garden.
“Smoked snook pâté with sourdough and condiments – snook is a very un-popular fish which is in abundance in the waters around Kangaroo Island. We brine and smoke the fish before making into a pâté. It is served with a variety of condiments, like a traditional caviar plate would be served, including chopped shallots, pickled cucumber, capers, chopped gherkin, crème fraiche, chive batons and sourdough croutons made with leftover sourdough from the day before.”
To read more about Sunset Food and Wine visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.
Botanica Restaurant & Market champion Californian produce
WHERE: 1620 Silver Lake Blvd., Los Angeles, California 90026, USA
“Our food celebrates the bounty of Southern California. We are passionate about what we refer to as nourishing hospitality. We believe that healthful eating and cooking can be vibrant, abundant and satisfying, and this philosophy extends to everything we do at Botanica: our warm and welcoming service, our natural wine list, our herb/fruit/vegetable-based cocktails and, of course, everything on the plate. We use beautiful local produce and the best possible products to create food that is colourful, creative, exciting and nourishing – food that makes you feel good.”
To read more about Botanica Restaurant & Market visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.
Botanica & Market, Los Angeles, California, USA
Harissa Kitchen on community spirit
“Community is at the heart of Harissa and the educational work of Food Nation. We've focused on making sure Harissa can be a positive environment for the community. We host a weekly Social Lunch Club where we open the doors on a day when the restaurant is closed. Each week we have a free healthy lunch for anyone from the local community to come together and enjoy around one big table. This is a chance for people to meet new people, make new friends, and enjoy good conversation. In turn, it strengthens peoples’ support network. Over the past two years, we have seen the impact of this simple activity on people's personal lives with stories of how important this weekly get together has become for some of the regular attendees.”
To read more about Harissa Kitchen visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.
Harissa Kitchen, Newcastle upon Tyne, UK
Rasoterra talk the slow food movement
“We organize every Saturday morning a Slow Food Earth Market that connects normal citizens with small producers. In this market we also have tasting and educational workshops for children and families. There's also always a slow food restaurant cooking one traditional dish. We are also about to start a new project to teach foreigners and locals traditional and local cuisine by educating them on how to buy (in the Santa Catarina Market) and how to cook.”
To read more about Rasoterra visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.
Rasoterra, Barcelona, Spain
PRINT. on why choosing local and organic matters
WHERE: 653 11th Avenue, New York, New York 10036, USA
“During the growing season (May through October) there are times when PRINT. is able to attain a ninety per cent fulfilment of local, traceable products on the menu. Organic and traceable products that are not indigenous or grown in the region, such as citrus and coffee, or some winter menu ingredients, are responsibly sourced through farms and foragers in their respective regions. In order to maintain this level of commitment, PRINT. employs an in-house forager as part of our culinary team to research, quality-check and liaise with purveyors including farms, local winemakers, craft breweries and greenmarkets. Some of the best products can come from very small vendors who don’t have the same infrastructure and supply chain as larger farms or distributors. By employing a forager, PRINT. can source these special items while supporting small farmers and purveyors.”
To read more about PRINT. visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.
PRINT., New York, USA
Terroirs d’Avenir shares their seafood sourcing
“We work directly with about fifteen fishermen and passionate wholesalers who support the small trades of artisanal fishing. This choice results from both an environmental ethic and a quality requirement. Passive fishing gear (longline, straight nets, etc.) allow for reasonable sampling of the resource, thus limiting overfishing; by targeting a species and a size of individuals, they also limit bycatch. In addition, these fishing techniques offer a much higher quality of product. As such, the example of hake is very telling. This fish owes its bad reputation to the fact that consumers only know the version caught by trawling; it’s very fragile flesh suffers from the crushing that occurs in nets. Fished by longline, a traditional craft of the Basque Country, its flesh is incomparable.”
To read more about Terriors d’Avenir visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.
Terroirs d'Avenir, Paris, France
The Bay Fish & Chips on staying sustainable
“We strive to make our business as sustainable as possible – even the starch from the potatoes is put to good use! Having invested in a special kit that enables our staff to filter off potato starch, we decant this by-product, so it can be collected by our farmer to feed his pigs. We are extremely strict with the potatoes, ensuring that no other food comes into contact with them, and our farmer regularly picks up fifty litres of starch at a time. When the Refill scheme launched, encouraging people to ask for tap water, we knew it was an initiative that suited us perfectly – promoting better hydration and encouraging reuse of plastic or glass bottles before they are recycled.”
To read more about The Bay Fish & Chips visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.
The Bay Fish & Chips, Scotland, UK
07 March 2019
BB Social Dining, BOCA and Folly were the stars of recent hit event, #ThreeChefsDinner.
07 March 2019
We asked PRINT.'s Meghan Boledovich to answer the Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery Questionnaire. There are only two rules – you have to tell the Truth, and do it with Love.
28 February 2019
Celebrating seven unique restaurants from around the world
28 February 2019
Glenn Barratt, executive chef at Wild Canary, Brisbane, Australia, breaks down the food loop, explains the benefits of a kitchen garden, and tells us why producer relationships are so important.